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BMW RainLock rain suit Review

We know that for some (like myself) short stints in the rain is fun and adventurous. But for those week long rainy days or long road trip kilometres in pouring rain we all need a proper rain suit. By proper I mean something that will keep you dry for hours on end…..specifically that strategic crotch area. When a rain suit fails you in that area it has the potential to spoil a good ride or a fun trip.

Now there are many good rain suits available on the market. A peek at your local motorcycle shop will quickly point you to brands such as Spidi, Dianese, Alpinestars, Tour Master, Oxford (some of these have served me well in the past) and many others in varying price ranges. For me, when the heavens open and I need to decide between scuba gear and a rain suit for the trip on the bike, I choose the unisex BMW RainLock 2 rain suit.  So, about two years ago I was out looking for a new rain suit when I discovered what was to be the best rain suit I have ever owned to date.

So what is this rain suit like you wonder? Well for starters, it is a two piece suit made from 100% nylon with a waterproof PU coating. It has two outer pockets with drainage on the jacket as well as two inside waterproof chest pockets (from 2018). The jacket has a removable hood in the collar, which I prefer to remove for a more comfortable fit. Especially when riding with a rucksack and/or neck brace. The collar zips up high to keep the rain and spray from other vehicles out. Both the pants and the jacket has strategically placed reflective print on the legs, sleeves, back and chest to enhance visibility in those low light rainy conditions. The pants has non-slip material on the butt are, so that your cheeks will properly grip the seat in wet weather. The inner leg area has heat resistant material and long leg zips for a quick and easy fit without struggling or need for removing your boots. It goes without saying that all the zips are waterproof/sealed. What I like about the pants is the elastic cord in the waist which makes for a comfortably tight and secure fit and the long legs that will keep your boots covered (at least up to your ankles)when seated on your motorcycle. This helps of course keep the water from creeping into your boots.

Velcro straps at the sleeve and leg ends are designed to ensure easy adjustment and that everything stays in place as you pick up speed in the rain. These two piece RainLock 2 suits are available in sizes XS-4XL from your local BMW Motorrad dealer. It is advisable to go in your full rider gear when purchasing your rain suit to be certain that it easily fits over your rider gear and that sleeves and legs are long enough when seated on your motorcycle. Oh and this RainLock suit folds up really small.

This simple, breathable rain suit will keep out wind and water. This jacket and pants are built to withstand just about any intensity of rain mother nature can through at you. A few weeks ago I spend close to an hour in pouring rain that resulted in numerous floodings and rivers of water on the road. The BMW RainLock 2 kept me dry the entire time and bright blue (orange for 2018) jacket with reflective strips I believe kept me visible and safe.

The only negative aspect of this jacket and trousers is the price. At close to R3 000 for the set this is no budget rain suit, but then again you could argue that you get what you pay for in superb quality and craftsmanship. A rain suit that keeps the water out while at the same time keeps you from overheating with its breathable technology.

So if your wallet agrees and you want to invest in a rain suit that will last you for years to come, then I strongly recommend purchasing the BMW RainLock 2 pants and jacket.

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BMW Race Helmet Review

A quick google search and you’ll see that there’s very little info available on the BMW Race helmet or as Bavaria refers to it…The Double R helmet. So without further babbling, here we go….


With the exception of the soon to arrive BMW Street X helmet, the Race Helmet is BMW’s only full-face non-flip up road helmet (currently). This helmet was designed with aero dynamics and stability in mind. Of course it’s needless to say that this lid is a top performer in terms of impact absorption with its EPS (Expanded Polystyrol) inner shell made up of several sections and an outer shell/helmet shell constructed from a combination of glass fibre reinforced plastic with additional carbon-fibre reinforcements (GRP). Maximum safety (ECE 22-05 rating) as only the Germans can do it….oh and it has a chin strap with double-D buckle to ensure it stays on your head.

The helmet has adequate ventilation, although some users might prefer additional exhaust vents. There is one chin vent which directs air onto the visor to help prevent it from fogging up, and two air intakes on the forehead which directs cool air over the top of the head. The ingenious design of the helmet inner ensures that hot air is guided to the rear of the helmet where it is dispersed out the exhaust vent in the cleverly designed neck-padding at the bottom of the helmet. In my opinion this helmet is ideally suited for riders of sport bikes, naked bikes and off course race-circuit use.


The Race Helmet’s inner or interior consists of moisture wigging Hydroplus material to help keep your head cool and dry. These inners (neck, cheek & chin pads) are removable and washable (see owner’s manual). The neckband does not only help to keep the helmet firmly in place, but also helps with keeping things quite in the helmet. To help with wind deflection and a quite ride there is two different types of chin inserts included when purchasing your race helmet. The helmet inner is shaped in such a way that it is relatively easy to install communication systems such as the Sena or Scala. The helmet is particularly shaped at the rear to accommodate race posture and gear. The large spoiler on the back of the helmet is designed in such a way that it minimizes buffeting of the head and helps keep the head stable at high speeds. At an approximate weight of 1300 grams I found the helmet to be stupidly light….so this lid definitely not tire out your neck. I recently spend close to an hour in pouring rain with this helmet. I am still speechless….my head remained dry and even vision remained as clear (no fogging up of the visor) as it gets in pouring rain on a motorcycle.


The visor provides a large field of vision even when the rider is stretched out over the tank in a racing posture. The visor is shaped with a 2D-curvature which provides crystal clear vision and no distortion. As can be expected from Bavaria this has a scratch proof coating inside & out with. The visor also has 2 nifty settings referred to as 1st and 2nd “city riding” which entails “semi-locking” the visor in one of two opened positions to aid with maximum air-flow and cooling. To help keep the freezing winter air and rain off your face the visor has an extremely user friendly “visor-lock” mechanism on the left of the visor. Removing and installing the visor is a one man job and I’ve found it to take less than 30seconds to remove and install the visor. This is achieved with two easy pull-down clips situated on each side of the helmet. Different colour visors are available from your authorised BMW dealer for approximately R1500 each and anti-fogging inserts can be bought separately for around R400.


BMW suggests in the owner’s manual that the helmet has a lifespan of 5 years. The Race helmet is available in sizes 52/53, 54/55, 56/57, 58/59, 60/61 & 62/63. The sizes refers to the head’s circumference in cm at the forehead. As the BMW helmet range has more of a round shape compared to the oval shape of the likes of Arai and Shoei, I’d recommend that you consider going one size bigger. As with any helmet fitting is a must before you splash the cash and invest in your safety.

What do I get when purchasing a BMW Race helmet?

1 x Top Quality helmet

1 x Anti-fogging visor insert

1 x Set of spare pinlock screws/inserts

1 x Set of 4 tear-off visor films

1 x BMW branded helmet bag

1 x Short chin spoiler insert

1 x Long chin spoiler insert


In my opinion this helmet sets the standard in safety & comfort and at an approximate price of R8700 (for plain colour) I doubt that you’ll find anything with this level of comfort, safety, weight, quietness coming close in price. I was amazed at how quite this helmet is, even on a naked bike. One can simply not go wrong with buying this helmet.

By: Hector

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The big question on a man’s (or women who are into engines)mind when doing a DIY service on the car or bike….especially if it is your first time,  is what oil to use.

Before we look into that, let’s first decipher all the “codes” and abbreviations you might see on an oil can.

API – means tested and approved by the American Petroleum Institute(API)

SAE – means the oil was tested by the Society of Automotive Engineers

JASO – stands for Japanese Engine Oil Standards Implementation Panel. JASO is usually indicated in MA, MA1 and MA2. The JASO grading is especially important for motorcycles and specifically those that use a wet clutch (clutch is immersed in oil).

Viscosity – Refers to the oil’s resistance to flow in high and low temperatures indicated on the oil can as 5W30, 10W40, 15W50, 20W50 etc.

Now to explain the viscosity. If we use a viscosity indicator of 20W50 as example, it can be explained as follow. The first part “20W” refers to the oil’s resistance to thickening when cold. The “W” stands for Winter (sure you knew that). So if you live in an area with very cold winters and relatively low annual temperatures you will most probably use “5W…” or “10W….” depending on what your owner’s manual specify or as directed by your dealership. So an oil with a lower “W” grade should in theory smear, seal and protect your vehicle’s engine better in lower temperatures.

The second part of the viscosity grade, in this case “50” (according to our example) refers to…’ve guessed it….the oil’s resistance to thinning when hot (engine running temperature). So if you stay in an area with extremely hot summers and high all year temperatures you wil most probably use “……40” or “….50”. Once again it is recommended that you refer to your owner’s manual or contact your local dealer for advice.

Your owner’s manual might make specific mention of Synthetic oil or Mineral oil (older engines). Important, if you’ve been using Synthetic oil (also referred to as Full Synthetic) then you cannot use a Mineral or Multigrade oil not event to top-up. If you wonder what’s the difference….you’re in luck! Cause I have a layman’s explanation:

Mineral oil – mostly a by- product of crude oil (made by nature) and used in older engines as these engines does not break down or make old(short molecules) the molecules (long strand molecules)that do the lubrication as fast as modern engines. Technically you can switch from mineral to synthetic oil in your old engine to extend service intervals (check with your dealer first).

Synthetic oil – mostly produced according to a fixed laboratory formula and process. These oils are ideal for high performance engines and used in most modern engines. The long strand molecules are more resistant and do not break down as easy as with mineral oil. Modern engines also tend to have longer service intervals. You cannot change from synthetic to mineral.

Multigrade Oil – can handle a wide range of temperatures. Multigrade oil contains a viscosity modifier that causes the oil to behave like a thin oil 20W or 15W when cold but a W50 when hot.

Oh and it is advisable to always change the oil filter when you do an oil change….with that bit of logic out of the way.

I trust that we’ve answered some of your oil questions and help you to choose the correct oil for your next service. Or at the very least we gave you the “cool” words to sound like an engine savvy guy/gal when you go to the dealer and ask what oil to use.

Note that we’re NOT making any recommendations. Please consult your owner’s manual, your authorized dealer or the manufacturers themselves before you do the oil change on your vehicle or motorcycle.

By: Pavlovski

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By: Hector Jamieson

This summative article is all about halogen/normal automotive headlight bulbs. But before we get into a short discussion, let’s first have a look at the technical side of things aka the specifications. This will help you understand it all a bit better plus you’ll sound super clever when you talk lights

Understanding the specifications:

Kelvin refers to the colour of the emitting light or the colour appearance of the bulb.

  • 3000K=warm white, 3500K=white, 4000K=cool white and 6500K is basically natural daylight

Lumens (lm) refers to the light output or the total amount of light emitted by the bulb.

Watt or Wattage (W) refers to how much electricity the light bulb will use. More wattage does not equate to a brighter light. In fact this is no place more evident than in LED (light emitting diode)lights where these lights sometimes use as little as 10W or 5W to produce an even brighter light than bulbs using 55W. Technology is advancing at a rapid pace and as automotive bulbs become more energy efficient we’ll see bulbs using less and less watts to emit a light.

I’m not gonna talk about Volts (V) cause we all know that’s the stuff can kicks the living daylights out of you when you touch a life wire.


X-Treme Vision H1, H4, H7 55W 12V 130% 450hrs 3500K +/- 1500lm
Vision H1, H3, H4, H7, H11 55W 12V 30% >400hrs   +/- 1500lm
Vision Plus H1, H4, H7 55W 12V 60% 400hrs   +/- 1500lm
White Vision H1,H3,H4, H7, H8, H11 65W 12.8V 60% 450hrs 3700K +/- 1860lm
Racing Vision H4, H7 55W 12V 150%      
Eco Vision H1, H4, H7, H11 55W 12V   1500hrs   +/- 1500lm
Colour Vision H4, H7 55W 12V 60% 400hrs 3350K +/- 1500lm
Crystal vision   65W 12V 30% 400hrs 4300K +/-1140lm


Night Breaker H1, H4, H7 55W 12V 110% 300hrs    
Cool Blue Intense H1, H4, H7 55W 12V 20% 450hrs 4200K +/- 1550lm
Ultra Life H1, H4, H7 55W 12V   1200hrs   +/- 1550lm
Silver Star 2.0 H1, H4, H7 55W 12V 60% 450hrs   +/- 1550lm

A bulb producing 30%-150% more light is basically just brighter and technically it should shine further than your standard halogen bulbs. Meaning, you’ll be able to see further down the road at night. Eco or energy saving bulbs generally produce close to the same light in terms of brightness than standard bulbs but they are however designed to last longer (measured in hours [hrs]) and they tend to do exactly that.

Xenon-effect bulbs usually emit a blue-ish/white-ish light is generally considered a fashion statement (it’s a fashion I like). But these bulbs generally makes it easier for you to see at night due to the ”white” light and makes you more visible to other road users due to the light contrast. A good quality blue-ish/white-ish light can get close (okay maybe) to the same performance of a xenon or HID (high intensity diode) light although it can by no means be compared to such lights

After market halogen bulbs are a relatively cheap way to upgrade your vehicle’s standard bulbs to help you see better, further, react quicker to hazards and be more visible to other road users. The aftermarket bulbs most widely used are those produced by Philips and Osram. These bulbs are available at most automotive parts retailers as well as at most motorcycle shops.

Depending on the brand and type of bulb you buy, you can expect to fork out in the region of R350 – R550 for a set of two (park lights are often included in the packaging).

Ooh!! Before I forget, specifically with vehicles it is advisable to change both bulbs simultaneously for maximum light and safety.

Have a look at these links to help you decide which bulbs to buy:





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BMW R-nineT Scrambler Review

At the start of this year I had the opportunity to ride the latest edition to BMW’s “retro” stable, the R-nineT Scrambler.

Now back in the day (way before I was born) the adventurous adrenaline seeking folk converted their street bikes to scramblers by throwing on some knobbly rubber and tweaking the suspension and handle bars to suit dirt riding. And this is exactly what those white coats at BMW did. They took the new R-nineT and fitted taller suspension (125mm travel front & rear), modified the handle bars, threw on some Metzeler Karoo 3 rubber (naturally there are other minor changes as well)and whala…the BMW Scrambler was born.

scrambler 3

This is a “bare bones”, basic machine, but as we’ve got to know from BMW “bare bones” in their terms simply means less electronics. With this air/oil cooled 1200cc motorcycle you will get heated grips, ABS, trip meter, clock and Akrapovic exhaust as standard.  So let’s talk power. In essence this bike makes use of the same DOHC 1170cc (aka 1200) boxer motor that did service in the previous range of GS, RT and R models, which kicks out 110hp (115Nmat 7750rpm in a bike that weights 220kg fully fuelled. This of course means that the scramble accelerates like something that’s been chased by all sorts of angry monsters. With those Karoo 3’s singing on the road and clinging for dear life this insanely cool bike (in my opinion) will get you to 220km/h (according to the speedometer).

scrambler 2

It is important to keep in mind that although this bike looks as if it can chew up any off-road trail, it is merely a modified road bike not purpose built to follow in the tracks of something like a GS. This bike sounds fantastically brutal and comes standard with guaranteed fun and coolness. With all the fun we had I got close to 290km of range from its 17 litre fuel tank. The seating position on the scrambler is comfortable, but I suspect that unless you are a diehard all weather biker the retro thinly cushioned leather seat will start to eat into your rear after 150-250 kilometres. This bike is not built with practicality and comfort in mind, it was built with fun and coolness in mind. The handling is confidence inspiring and the 1200 scrambler is reassuringly easy to handle in traffic. The Brembo brakes provide hands full of ABS assisted safe braking. This motorcycle is exceptionally customisable with accessories like a headlight grill, engine bash plate and many other accessories available from Roland Sands Design (RSD), Touratech and Wunderlich. And when it gets to where the rubber meets the road and you are scared of some brown moments with those Karoo 3’s in the rain….fear not. Michelin Anakee 3 and Continental Trail Attack 2 rubber can be fitted to those retro spoked rims

Locally there are two derivatives of the scrambler available with the difference being the absence of LED indicators, Traction Control (ASC) and a retro tank and an approximate R20 000 drop in price. Pricing is around R196 000 and R178 000 respectively.

scrambler 1

The Verdict

To be frank…BUY IT!!! On condition that it is not your only motorcycle and you are ready for fun. The scrambler is a versatile machine with enjoyable performance ideal for those daily commutes with its elevated seating position. So go on….grab a hand full of throttle and smile.

The Numbers

Engine 1170cc air/oil cooled DOHC horizontally opposed two cylinder
Max Power 82kW/110hp @ 7750rpm
Max Torque 115Nm @ 6000rpm
Final Drive Shaft
Front Suspension Right-way-up 43mm Showa forks with 125mm travel
Rear suspension Sachs shock with 125mm travel
Front Brakes Dual 320mm discs with 4 piston callipers
Rear Brakes Single 265mm disc with 2 piston calliper
Wheel size Front 120/70 R19
Wheel size Rear 170/60 R17
Wet weight (fully fuelled & oiled) 220kg
Fuel Capacity 17L
Service Intervals 10 000km or as indicated by an authorised BMW dealer

By: Pavlovski

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Casio G-Shock GD-120CM review

Watches…..some wear them for the “bling” factor, others want practicality, some want theirs to do everything short of making coffee and then there those who want them tough and durable. I guess to a certain extent a watch is a fashion statement, but for me it speaks more of a man’s character….and yes, it’s nice if it can do more than simply telling the time.

Here’s what I want from a watch:

  • 24h time reading
  • Tell the date
  • Stopwatch/timer
  • Back light so that I can still read the time in poor lighting
  • It must be waterproof
  • Have a battery life of at least 5yrs
  • Have a wrist strap that will last me at least 10yrs.


That’s why there’s only one watch I believe the everyday adventurer should wear and that is the Casio G-Shock. Okay….and yes, it looks the part as well. My previous G-Shock was my 1st real watch and met all of the above criteria and more….still ticking after…..years. The only reason I’m not still wearing it is because I was fortunate enough to get my hands on the new GD-120CM form Casio’s G-Shock range. So without any further adue let’s get into the details of the GD-120CM. It’s a known fact by now that G-Shock is synonymous with durability, longevity and tough… we won’t waste time on what the G-Shock range is all about. The GD-120 refers to the “frame” or “chassis” on which this watch is build. CM stands for camouflage and “8” to the camouflage colour.


Let’s look at the specs:

  • 7yr battery life
  • Blue LED backlights (super Illuminator) bright to even to map readings in poor light
  • Waterproof up to 20bar or 200m
  • Mineral Glass
  • Shock Resistant
  • 200-meter water resistance
  • Case / bezel material: Resin
  • Resin Band
  • Auto light switch, selectable illumination duration, afterglow
  • Flash alert
    Flashes with buzzer that sounds for alarms, hourly time signal
  • Multi Time (4 different cities)
  • World time – 31 time zones (48 cities + coordinated universal time), city code display, daylight saving on/off, Home city/World time city swapping
  • 1/100-second stopwatch
    Measuring capacity: 23:59’59.99”
    Measuring modes: Elapsed time, split time, 1st-2nd place times
  • Countdown timer
    Measuring unit: 1/10 second
    Countdown range: 24 hours
    Countdown start time setting range: 1 second to 24 hours (1-second increments, 1-minute increments and 1-hour increments)
  • 5 daily or one-time alarms
  • Hourly time signal
  • Full auto-calendar (to year 2099)
  • 12/24-hour format
  • Button operation tone on/off (silent mode)
  • Regular timekeeping
    Digital: Hour, minute, second, pm, month, date, day
  • Accuracy: ±15 seconds per month
  • battery life: 7 years on CR2025
  • Size of case:?55?×?2?×?17.4?mm
  • Total weight: 72 g

G1  G5

I found that the bulk of the watch is something to get use to, however it is light, sits well on the wrist and all functions are user friendly and easy to operate. The watch was really well presented in matching camo pattern aluminium case placed in a camo G-Shock box. The wider wrist band with double buckle pins makes it quick and easy to fit and renders a certain aggressive look. The GD-120CM has a negative display which is meant to make reading the time (without the LED back light)in poor lighting conditions easier. It is speculated that this is based on the outcome of a study did by the men in white coats at the US Marines. All in all, nothing bad can be said of the Casio G-Shock GD-120CM range unless you want a watch that can do more (tell the moon cycle, ocean tides, direction etc.). All Casio’s should come with a 1 year warranty that can be extended with another 6 month (18 months in total) by registering the serial number on the e-warranty site. If you want a watch that your grand kids can inherit, invest in any of Casio’s G-Shock watches.


By: Hector Jamieson

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WÜRTH Injector Cure

Well, the name says it all…..over the years I’ve experimented with various products on the market that claims to clean the entire fuel system top to bottom. Instead of putting on a white coat and safety goggles for a scientific lab test, I opted for a proper scientifically approved method……Helmet, leather jacket and my bike. I precisely chuck in the tank the required amount of juices & cleaner, pop the ignition and twist the throttle for the open road & daily commute. This precise method of testing brought me the conclusion that most of these products probably clean the fuel system but not so much that I notice an improvement in performance or fuel consumption.

That was until I discovered a product by German company, WÜRTH called Injector Cure. On the bottle they claim a lot of awesome stuff that I simply needed to verify for myself. One of the major pro’s with this product was the value for money aspect…..a bottle of 330ml Injector Cure will treat a 100Litres of fuel. That’s about 5 to 7 tanks of petrol on your average bike. So applying my tried and tested scientific testing I used the product over a period of one month, with….well….surprising results. My BMW motorcycle definitely sounded different, a sign of the bike running cleaner and I noticed a tiny bit of more grunt on pull away and under hard acceleration. My conclusion is, that if this is the differences I feel on the bike, it most certainly does what it says on the bottle. In all seriousness now, I do believe that using this product at service intervals will help fuel lines and pumps to last longer and keep your tank free of any unwanted muck (stuff that shouldn’t be there). Similar results were achieved after working a bottle of the “good-stuff” through the family MPV’s fuel system.

So what does WÜRTH Injector Cure do for your bike?

  • SABS tested & approved for all types of petrol injection engines
  • Removes residue responsible for increased fuel consumption & reduced performance
  • Enhances smooth running & performance
  • Helps lower engine emissions
  • Cleans the whole fuel system, restoring optimum fuel flow
  • Prevents corrosion of the fuel tank & entire fuel system
  • Can be used at service intervals or as preventativelyInjector Cure_1

By: Pavlovski

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Sleeping comfortably in a tent is a challenge and struggle for many campers and often the reason why people opt not to go camping. There are various products available on the market ranging from inflatable mattresses, various stretchers and a variety of foam-type mattresses. The problem with most of these products is that they either deflate, are too thin, don’t give any support or when folded/rolled up are too big or heavy for most hikers, over-landers and adventure motorcyclists.

I recently received an ATG (All Terrain Gear) Camp Sleeper which can be described as a lightweight stretcher. This stretcher comes in three guises of which I have the heaviest version weighing in at an approximate 1.9kg. It consists of a tear resistant, super strong high tenacity nylon sail/canvas, 12 extremely strong and durable plastic feet and 24 hi-tech aircraft quality aluminium poles. It takes me about 3 minutes to assemble the stretcher/sleeper but I am sure as one gets accustom to using it on a frequent basis assembly will be considerably quicker. I must admit that it did take me a while in the beginning to figure out the most comfortable sleeping position on this stretcher, but as soon as I had that sorted I slept like a baby time after time. Personally I will never again use any other sleeping option than the ATG sleeper. Waking up tired after a long day’s ride on the bike is a thing of the past for me.

As an adventure motorcyclists space and weight is always an issue when loading/packing my motorcycle for a ride and if I compare the ATG sleeper to what I am used to take with in order sleep comfortable, the ATG sleeper un-doubtly frees up oodles of spaces while helping me to travel lighter.

20160106_194010 20160106_194153


ATG advertises this product to be super strong, compact & light weight, waterproof, rot & UV resistant and easy to assemble. Except for durability (because I haven’t owned it for very long now)I can testify to all of the above. I am convinced that as I continue to use this sleep on my excursions I will sleep comfortably everywhere and anywhere.

So in summary, the ATG sleeper is the best sleeping option if you are an extreme endurance racer, adventure motorcyclists or hiker. Incredible strength and light weight is this product’s forte. The only down side to this sleeper could be the price. Depending on which of the three versions you purchase and where you purchase it, you can expect to pay anything from R1500 to R2300.

  • Size when assembled – 185cm X 60cm
  • Height when assembled 12cm
  • Can sleep up to 140kgs (heavy duty model of the 3 model range)
  • Lifetime Guarantee
  • Made in South Africa

By: Hector Jamieson

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