Galleries

BMW Race Helmet Review

A quick google search and you’ll see that there’s very little info available on the BMW Race helmet or as Bavaria refers to it…The Double R helmet. So without further babbling, here we go….

   

With the exception of the soon to arrive BMW Street X helmet, the Race Helmet is BMW’s only full-face non-flip up road helmet (currently). This helmet was designed with aero dynamics and stability in mind. Of course it’s needless to say that this lid is a top performer in terms of impact absorption with its EPS (Expanded Polystyrol) inner shell made up of several sections and an outer shell/helmet shell constructed from a combination of glass fibre reinforced plastic with additional carbon-fibre reinforcements (GRP). Maximum safety (ECE 22-05 rating) as only the Germans can do it….oh and it has a chin strap with double-D buckle to ensure it stays on your head.

The helmet has adequate ventilation, although some users might prefer additional exhaust vents. There is one chin vent which directs air onto the visor to help prevent it from fogging up, and two air intakes on the forehead which directs cool air over the top of the head. The ingenious design of the helmet inner ensures that hot air is guided to the rear of the helmet where it is dispersed out the exhaust vent in the cleverly designed neck-padding at the bottom of the helmet. In my opinion this helmet is ideally suited for riders of sport bikes, naked bikes and off course race-circuit use.

Comfort:

The Race Helmet’s inner or interior consists of moisture wigging Hydroplus material to help keep your head cool and dry. These inners (neck, cheek & chin pads) are removable and washable (see owner’s manual). The neckband does not only help to keep the helmet firmly in place, but also helps with keeping things quite in the helmet. To help with wind deflection and a quite ride there is two different types of chin inserts included when purchasing your race helmet. The helmet inner is shaped in such a way that it is relatively easy to install communication systems such as the Sena or Scala. The helmet is particularly shaped at the rear to accommodate race posture and gear. The large spoiler on the back of the helmet is designed in such a way that it minimizes buffeting of the head and helps keep the head stable at high speeds. At an approximate weight of 1300 grams I found the helmet to be stupidly light….so this lid definitely not tire out your neck.

Vision:

The visor provides a large field of vision even when the rider is stretched out over the tank in a racing posture. The visor is shaped with a 2D-curvature which provides crystal clear vision and no distortion. As can be expected from Bavaria this has a scratch proof coating inside & out with. The visor also has 2 nifty settings referred to as 1st and 2nd “city riding” which entails “semi-locking” the visor in one of two opened positions to aid with maximum air-flow and cooling. To help keep the freezing winter air and rain off your face the visor has an extremely user friendly “visor-lock” mechanism on the left of the visor. Removing and installing the visor is a one man job and I’ve found it to take less than 30seconds to remove and install the visor. This is achieved with two easy pull-down clips situated on each side of the helmet. Different colour visors are available from your authorised BMW dealer for approximately R1500 each and anti-fogging inserts can be bought separately for around R400.

General:

BMW suggests in the owner’s manual that the helmet has a lifespan of 5 years. The Race helmet is available in sizes 52/53, 54/55, 56/57, 58/59, 60/61 & 62/63. The sizes refers to the head’s circumference in cm at the forehead. As the BMW helmet range has more of a round shape compared to the oval shape of the likes of Arai and Shoei, I’d recommend that you consider going one size bigger. As with any helmet fitting is a must before you splash the cash and invest in your safety.

What do I get when purchasing a BMW Race helmet?

1 x Top Quality helmet

1 x Anti-fogging visor insert

1 x Set of spare pinlock screws/inserts

1 x Set of 4 tear-off visor films

1 x BMW branded helmet bag

1 x Short chin spoiler insert

1 x Long chin spoiler insert

Verdict:

In my opinion this helmet sets the standard in safety & comfort and at an approximate price of R8700 (for plain colour) I doubt that you’ll find anything with this level of comfort, safety, weight, quietness coming close in price. I was amazed at how quite this helmet is, even on a naked bike. One can simply not go wrong with buying this helmet.

By: Hector

Please like & share:

LET US TALK OIL

The big question on a man’s (or women who are into engines)mind when doing a DIY service on the car or bike….especially if it is your first time,  is what oil to use.

Before we look into that, let’s first decipher all the “codes” and abbreviations you might see on an oil can.

API – means tested and approved by the American Petroleum Institute(API)

SAE – means the oil was tested by the Society of Automotive Engineers

JASO – stands for Japanese Engine Oil Standards Implementation Panel. JASO is usually indicated in MA, MA1 and MA2. The JASO grading is especially important for motorcycles and specifically those that use a wet clutch (clutch is immersed in oil).

Viscosity – Refers to the oil’s resistance to flow in high and low temperatures indicated on the oil can as 5W30, 10W40, 15W50, 20W50 etc.

Now to explain the viscosity. If we use a viscosity indicator of 20W50 as example, it can be explained as follow. The first part “20W” refers to the oil’s resistance to thickening when cold. The “W” stands for Winter (sure you knew that). So if you live in an area with very cold winters and relatively low annual temperatures you will most probably use “5W…” or “10W….” depending on what your owner’s manual specify or as directed by your dealership. So an oil with a lower “W” grade should in theory smear, seal and protect your vehicle’s engine better in lower temperatures.

The second part of the viscosity grade, in this case “50” (according to our example) refers to…..you’ve guessed it….the oil’s resistance to thinning when hot (engine running temperature). So if you stay in an area with extremely hot summers and high all year temperatures you wil most probably use “……40” or “….50”. Once again it is recommended that you refer to your owner’s manual or contact your local dealer for advice.

Your owner’s manual might make specific mention of Synthetic oil or Mineral oil (older engines). Important, if you’ve been using Synthetic oil (also referred to as Full Synthetic) then you cannot use a Mineral or Multigrade oil not event to top-up. If you wonder what’s the difference….you’re in luck! Cause I have a layman’s explanation:

Mineral oil – mostly a by- product of crude oil (made by nature) and used in older engines as these engines does not break down or make old(short molecules) the molecules (long strand molecules)that do the lubrication as fast as modern engines. Technically you can switch from mineral to synthetic oil in your old engine to extend service intervals (check with your dealer first).

Synthetic oil – mostly produced according to a fixed laboratory formula and process. These oils are ideal for high performance engines and used in most modern engines. The long strand molecules are more resistant and do not break down as easy as with mineral oil. Modern engines also tend to have longer service intervals. You cannot change from synthetic to mineral.

Multigrade Oil – can handle a wide range of temperatures. Multigrade oil contains a viscosity modifier that causes the oil to behave like a thin oil 20W or 15W when cold but a W50 when hot.

Oh and it is advisable to always change the oil filter when you do an oil change….with that bit of logic out of the way.

I trust that we’ve answered some of your oil questions and help you to choose the correct oil for your next service. Or at the very least we gave you the “cool” words to sound like an engine savvy guy/gal when you go to the dealer and ask what oil to use.

Note that we’re NOT making any recommendations. Please consult your owner’s manual, your authorized dealer or the manufacturers themselves before you do the oil change on your vehicle or motorcycle.

By: Pavlovski

Please like & share: